Even more impressive than New Zealand’s landscape is the country’s dedication to protecting it. The most spectacular corners of New Zealand are home to the “Great Walks”, fastidiously maintained by the Department of Conservation. There are 10 of these “Great Walks”, six of which are on the South Island; they weave through alpine ranges, valleys, tarns (mountain lakes), meadows, coastlines, and fiords, and have incredible overnight huts and on-duty rangers along the way.
The Routeburn Track is one of the most iconic Great Walks, and I joined a group with Ultimate Hikes for a spectacular 3 day trek (there are few other options, as the huts book up months in advance and I wasn’t traveling with all the gear I’d need). The 20-mile track starts at the Divide, the lowest crossing of the Southern Alps, and carries you through Fiordland and Mount Aspiring National Parks. We spent our first day in absolute downpour. Ever grateful to the first NZ hut experience at Lake Howden (with its inviting fireplace and hot drinks), we climbed on through beech forest to Earland Falls (which with our weather was a thrilling, slippery walk underneath a raging waterfall). From there, we descended to Mackenzie lodge for the night.
Day two was all sun, and marked the moment I fell completely in love with tarns — alpine lakes that form when a glacier leaves behind a bowl-like shape and fills it with water. This landscape was carved by glaciers over 100,000 years, leaving tarns and fiords and deep valleys behind. You can spot waterfalls cascading thousands of feet into these fiords (if you’re not already spell-bound by the lakes and granite peaks).
About 80% of my photos on the Routeburn of this one gorgeous lake — Lake Harris — a lake with zero bad angles, and the only lake that’s left me breathless. In the photo to the right, you can spot the trail below us winding along the right side of the lake. Lord of the Rings territory out here. I climbed up Conical Hill (an 90-minute side trip) for stellar views of the Hollyford Valley through to Lake McKerrow and all the way to the Tasman Sea.
This is the Harris Saddle. Possibly the most epically-positioned hut and lunch spot and sun-bathing location. (Also easily mistaken for a rock…) It was here that I encountered kiwis running the entire 20-mile track in one day.
The third day’s trek out of Routeburn Falls brought a mix of forest paths and swing bridges and alpine pastures. We followed the river through to the gorge, and soaked up the last few miles through dense beech forest. One Great Walk down, nine to go… :)
